Showing posts with label Port of Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Port of Spain. Show all posts

Day 13: Port of Spain, Trinidad


Leaving Tobago was not heartbreaking. In fact, between the weather, people trying to screw us over, Julia losing her stuff and me not getting any cocktails on the beach, we were pretty much ready to end this whole trip, and going back to Trinidad symbolized the beginning of the journey home. As we were instructed, we left the jeep locked from the inside in a parking lot next to the ferry terminal. We were smarter when picking our seats this time - the seats in the center row of the bottom level are by far the most stable ones in the boat.

At the terminal in Port of Spain we tried forever to catch a taxi, but with no luck. Eventually someone directed us to the Independence Square, which turned out to be walking distance from the ferry terminal. From there we took a Maxi Taxi to Belmont, where our guest house was located.

Thanna’s place is run by Anna, a sweet middle aged woman, who was extremely helpful. We wanted to call Stanley, the man who had found Julia’s stuff, but we knew we weren’t going to understand anything through the phone connection and his thick accent. Anna called him for us, and we were surprised to find out that he offered to come all the way to Port of Spain from Chaguanas, a 30 minutes drive, by taxi. Then he would have to walk another half an hour to get to Belmont. Anna lent us a local phone and suggested that we walk around until Stanley arrived.

We looked for food, but it was between lunch and dinner, so everything was closed. We were distracted by the National Museum which was really cool, with exhibits about history, natural history and some interesting contemporary art.

Stanley called us. He was close by. We walked quickly back to the guest house. Stanley was already there, waiting for us. He is very tall, sweet, and warm, and he makes furniture for a living. He found the purse in the taxi after we got off it, and decided not to give it to the taxi driver, because he knew that the taxi driver would not care and just take the cash. Stanley, however, was determined to do the right thing. He went through the purse and found the piece of paper that had our entire schedule, including our hotel and flight reservations. He started calling all the hotels to try to contact us, but failed. His plan was to find us in the airport the day of our flight back. Later he decided to go through the wallet more thoroughly, and it was then that he came across Julia’s business card and was able to email her. He returned everything, including the phone, all the cards, and all of the cash, with the bills sorted by value and all facing the same way. Julia burst into tears and hugged him. We gave him some money as an act of gratitude, and in hindsight, we should have given him more.

There was still the mystery of the attempt to withdraw cash with one of the cards half an hour after our taxi ride. I didn’t want to ask and put Stanley in an awkward position. Obviously he wasn’t after the money. I think he tried to use it just to see if he can get any information that would help him find us. “You should really be blogging about this,” Julia said.


Now was a good time to find food. We went to Queens park where there’s a street food market every night. We finally had the local shark and bake, which is pieces of deep fried shark and some veggies in a pita-like bread. It’s like shark falafel, really. It’s excellent. Then we had Pholourie, which are balls of deep fried batter. Ours came tamarind sauce, and they were great.





From there walked to look for a place to hang out. We found a bar and we sat outside and had a few drinks. Anna told us not to walk back to the guest house when it’s dark. Even the locals don’t do that. We asked the hostess to call us a taxi, which caused a lot of unexpected commotion in the staff. After a few minutes a bartender came up to us and told us he can drop us off. In the car, I realized I forgot Trinidad rule #2 which says that you should always ask how much something costs, especially if it looks like it’s free. We got to the guest house, and the guys asked for 60TT.

- “Are you a taxi?” I asked him.
- “No, but you wanted a ride.”
- “I wanted a taxi. If I knew you weren’t just being nice, I would just get a taxi.”
- “Well, this is what a taxi would have cost you.”
- “No, it’s not, and you know it. If you wanted money then you should have told me in advance. I’ll give you 30. Good night.”

He was young and confused, so he just said “o.k, good night!” and that was it.

Day 8: Port of Spain, Trinidad

Our main goal of the day was to get to Trinidad in one piece. Each. So two pieces all together. Our car was parked all the way in the front of the line of cars in the guest house parking, so we did the old car-tetris thing to get it out, and we were on our way. Of course, it rained on us again at the car rental office, and we realized that the forecast was for it to rain during our entire stay in Trinidad.

There are several ways to get from Puerto Rico to Trinidad. Most of them require you to fly back to the mainland - to Miami, for instance. Another option is to hop between the islands with a Caribbean airline, like Liat. The reviews they are getting online are terrible, but we decided it’s worth the adventure. 

Our first stop was Antigua. We had very little time to change planes. In this plane, a Caribbean woman was in my seat.

- "Excuse me, you're in my seat."
- "No I'm not."
- "Can I see your boarding pass?"
- "I don't have it."
- "What seat are you supposed to be in?"
- "I don't know."

She turned her head away, disengaging from the conversation. Julia put her bag down at her seat, while I signaled a flight attendant.

- "Do you have to sit together?" the lady asked. She started to realize she was going to lose this one.
- "Yes, we do!"
- "O.K. I'll trade seats with you." she said, and moved to the seat across the aisle, next to her boyfriend. Asshole.

We flew over many big and small islands, and landed in St. Lucia. Here, we didn't have to leave the plane. It was a short stop for people to hop on or off the plane, and then we continued to Trinidad. Overall, the airline was great. I really don't know why the reviews online are so bad.

The number one rule in Trinidad is to go with the guy with the right T-shirt, like the taxi drivers in the airport. Don't go with the random guy who offers you a ride. Go with the one that has the airport taxi service T-shirt. The guy took us all the way to our hotel in Port of Spain, and it wasn't too expensive.

The receptionist at the hotel just stared at me and giggled. Julia thinks she thought I was cute. I think they're both right.

- “We have a reservation.”
- “A what?!"
- “A reservation!”

She was very confused. It looked like it was unreasonable in her mind that we’d have a reservation. Like she forgot this was a hotel. The entire conversation was very frustrating. And very giggly. Eventually we got our room. It was pretty bad. All the rooms in the hotel were named after different Caribbean islands, and those names were engraved on wooden plaques hung on the doors. Ours didn’t. We barely had a door. It was more like a gate. And the bed… I would rather have the bed I slept in during basic training than this bed.

It was Christmas night, so everything was closed for dinner, but the receptionist told us that we might have better luck downtown. And then she giggled. Can she get us a taxi? She can, but we can also wait for the manager - she would be happy to drive us, and she should be back any minute now.

Half an hour later, the manager showed up. She said she would take us, but nothing is open, except for this one Chinese restaurant. Just like America, we thought. So she drove us there, a drive that takes about two minutes, and then demanded a fee of ten dollars. American dollars. The second rule in Trinidad is that you don’t talk about Trinidad. O.K, it’s not. The second rule in Trinidad, actually, is to always ask how much things cost beforehand, especially when you don’t think they will cost anything at all.

The staff at the Chinese restaurant had very poor English, and had a hard time talking to us as Julia would not talk in Chinese to them. Her excuse was that she heard them speak Cantonese among themselves, and she only knows Mandarin. My argument that almost every Chinese person speaks Mandarin did not convince her. The truth of the matter is that she’s just uncomfortable speaking Mandarin at all.

We tried to pay with one of my cards. The waitress took it to the back and we could see that a struggle was taking place between her and the credit card machine. Eventually, a more senior staff member came to the table and in broken English tried to explain to us that the waitress had charged my card twice, so they’re returning to me the difference in cash, if that’s o.k. The waitress, it turns out, is new. “She doesn’t know!” she said. This was my time to shine. “Ta bu zhi dao ma?” (“she doesn’t know?!”) I asked. I was so convincing that she switched immediately to Mandarin, obviously repeating the whole story to me, now completely ignoring Julia.. I just nodded and uttered an occasional “dui, dui…” (“right, right...”) which just made her go faster and Julia laugh harder. “Are you sure you don’t wanna blog about this?” Julia asked as we walked back to our room.